Uruguay Treck on 11/03/10 by Alexandra Alden

My Uruguay adventure began in Montevideo, the capital. I cruised into the city at sunset on with my head pressed against the bus window and my headphones in my ears. Upon my arrival I was stressed and hungry, as I always am after any sort of voyage and more focused on finding an empanada stand than looking around me but the minute I got into the Ciudad Vieja (Old City) I forgot about my stomach. I’d been spending my days in good ole Buenos Aires, which as a city has collectively decided to ignore the fact that it is on a river. The Montevideans take a different stance. While the river in B.A. is relegated to the outer edges of the city, it is incorporated into Montevideo. The Ciudad Vieja is where this is most evident because it sticks out onto a peninsula. So, from every street you catch glimpses of the river and immediately get struck by that Zen vibe that only large bodies of water can create.

So now I’m zenning and I head to my hostel, El Viajero Hostel. This hostel was amazing, save for the bed bugs that took advantage of my entire body, but really, I don’t think it happens too regularly. Not only do they have a great rooftop terrace but every Saturday they make great asados (big barbecues) on said terrace. These asados are a great way to chill and meet other fellow backpackers. So now I had taken care of the hunger problem as well.

For the next couple days I got to know Montevideo a bit. I was there during the South American summer months (February) so the denizens of the city had all fled to the neighboring beach towns. However there is still a good amount to do and you don’t have to push people out of the way on the streets.

I was there on a Sunday, and as in many South American cities, really the only thing to do is cruise the markets. There is a giant one across from the Biblioteca Nacional (the National Library) where you can find any sort of oddity you can think of. As I approached I noticed light reflecting off glass cases, and upon closer inspection realized it was stacks of fish tanks slowly roasting in the sun. You can acquire any sort of fish that tickles your fancy there or, if you prefer, a brightly colored parrot. Also, do not be alarmed if several adorable puppies are shoved into your face as you stroll. I contemplated the purchase of one for a couple minutes but then realized there would probably be some issues when I went to board the ferry back to Buenos Aires. 

After an hour or so there the heat started to overwhelm me so I headed for the Rambla that follows the coastline, this promenade leads to an adequate if not amazing beach where you can catch some rays and get wet. All the essentials.

The next day I was back on the bus headed to Punta del Este. Arriving there I noticed a change in the dress code. As soon as I got off the bus I realized shirts and shoes were definitely optional. Punta del Este, with its white houses and high-rises is Uruguay’s scaled down version of Miami, complete with their own version of South Beach known as Bikini Beach. All the who’s who of Argentina and Uruguay plant their tanned bodies on this beach and proceed to look good. The prices are also comparable to a Uruguayan Miami, so if you want to play be prepared to pay.

While there I stayed at the 1949 Hostel, which is a cool, reasonably priced hostel and you can see the sea from most of the rooms. However, be prepared to be within 5 feet of everyone else in your room. The ‘sardines in a can’ metaphor comes to mind. It didn’t really bother me though because they had an in house bar with great 2 for 1 happy hour specials. When the caipirinhas are flowing, who cares where you’re sleeping.

I of course had to hit up the famed ‘Bikini Beach’ however; and, while I was expecting to have my self-esteem trampled as I sat amongst a crowd of tanned super models, there were surprisingly few people there. It could have been the combination of clouds on the horizon and the fact that it was getting towards the end of the season, but there were more beer bellies swinging above Speedos than models in bikinis.

Of course, Bikini Beach is not Punta del Este’s only beach and in my opinion not its best. For starters you have to take a 30 minute bus ride to get there from the center of Punta, and the beaches in Punta are just as good, although a bit more crowded. The La Brava and La Mansa beaches are both worthwhile options in town. On La Brava there is also a giant hand sculpture coming out of the ground. It is by the artist Mario Irrazabal, and looks like some sort of Herculean giant has decided it is time to make his presence felt. Invariably, there are tourists perched on the thumb or hugging the middle finger and snapping photos, but it is still highly impressive.

The next stop on my Uruguayan circuit was Punta Del Diablo. After a 3 hour bus ride staring out the window at the passing fields of cows we veered off the paved road onto a sandy path into the dunes. Arriving in Punta Del Diablo I got the travel hyperactivity. I wanted out of the bus NOW. There were beautiful things passing by the window that I wanted to observe, I began tugging the sleeve of my travel companion (an Australian I had met in Punta) babbling very coherent phrases such as “Look at…Oh my God! We have to…Wow dude.”

If you have ever listened to a Bob Marley song and felt your heart go a little a-flutter you will love Punta Del Diablo. The small town is built onto the dunes and the one story homes painted a wide range of colors. The roads are all sand and it is as common to see a horse standing nonchalantly in someone’s front lawn as a car. This is the hippies answer to Punta del Este. Gone are the flashy cars, bikinis and bars replaced with surf boards, board shorts and the single beach bar the town boasts. I, however, felt right at home.

The first day we dropped our backpacks at the Diablo Tranquilo Hostel, reputed to be the best in town. It was a cool place, however, the most disorganized staff I have ever dealt with. They have some cockamamie (yes, I just used that word) system of booking rooms that will ensure that you will probably have to change beds at one point and the staff will stare at you confusedly when asked where you should go. However, they do mean well and it is only 5 minutes from the beach so I can’t really complain.

After the checking-in debacle (for awhile it seemed as if I would be sleeping in a hammock on the porch) I decided to trek over the dunes. It is a beautiful walk and when I got to the other side I was blessed with white sandy beach for as far as the eye can see. There is was also a slightly eerie stick statue of a horse that seemed like it could have come out of Blair Witch Project.

The next day after hanging out on the beach for most of the morning and afternoon playing the requisite Frisbee and swimming in the sea, I went horseback riding. Word of advice, do not wear flip flops, even if the guide, after checking to ensure you had signed the release form, gives you the go-ahead.

The ride followed a beautiful trail through the natural park where we stopped to drink wine. After our little break we continued down onto the beach (right about sunset) where it was time to gallop. Up until this point my mighty steed, La Borracha (The Drunk) and I had gotten along swimmingly, save for the several times she almost stumbled into a ditch, hence the name I think. When we went to gallop everything went haywire. The shoes came off in the first 10 seconds, and then the feet came out of the stirrups, and then the panic set in. While everyone else was enjoying a thrilling gallop on the beach, I was fighting for survival atop La Borracha.

Fortunately, after much rein-pulling I was able to stop La Borracha and the guide came back and got my shoes. I then proceeded to do a horseback ‘walk of shame’ to the other riders. My near-death experience, however, was worth the views afforded to me by the ride.

The next day I was on the bus back to Montevideo and then on to Buenos Aires. My trip had taken me to three very different atmospheres. From the more metropolitan Montevideo, to the high-class beaches of Punta del Este to the laid-back hippy town of Punta del Diablo, in one week you can experience a little bit of everything in Uruguay.