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The rise of the falls of Iguazu 

Life is full of ups and downs. One moment you are full with joy at the sight of a laughing child, and the next moment you are cursing at a driver that splashed mud at you as he took a corner. The ability to experience such a full spectrum of feelings in such a short time has always fascinated me, especially when it comes to those unexpected rare moments experiencing nature.

Nature is neutral, and will not manipulate us humans for its own goals.

And yet, here and there I get the feeling nature is playing a trick on me.

In the great falls of Iguazu I felt just that.

I didn't sleep too well that night, and I woke up a bit too early, and a bit too cranky.

The guy that brings the bread to the hostel didn't show up this morning, and my breakfast summed up to an over ripe banana and some anemic re-heated coffee.

I was tired. Did I mention I was cranky?

The bus to the falls was running late, and I was sweating all over.
The bus finally arrived; I was in the middle of an inner argument about sleeping hours vs. seeing as much as possible.  The bus driver that opened the door didn't seem to mind the drama that went through my head, and so I got on the bus, to arrive shortly at the gates of "Parque Nacional Iguazú" (Iguazu national park).

After a short walk towards the park train, we, myself and some 80 middle aged Japanese, started the slow ride through the woods. I didn't expect to see any monkeys or special birds along the way, as I assumed they will avoid the part of the forest were man have laid tracks. I was right.

We arrived at the first stop. I walked barefoot through the forest on a well reserved man made path, and the sound of the falling water sprinkled my ear, then disappears, driven away by the think bush. I was beginning to calm down.

"I wish I was alone here" I thought to myself, but the Japanese were actually pretty quite, and the group of israelis were already far ahead.

The more we walked, the louder it got. In the beginning it was only the water, but slowly, with each step, it was clear – they were mumbling.

I couldn't understand the words, but the vibe in the air was positive behind doubt.

Then a few words hit me. "Wow" was one of them, then "wuuuu". The closer I got, the louder it became, and the sound of water made the other voices seem meaningless.

Then I got there.

There was a big natural window, in the middle of the path. And there they were. Proud, untamed, wild and elegant – The great Falls of Iguasu. I couldn't "wow". I just stood there, staring at this incredible view. In a split of a second, all those thoughts of tiredness have magically disappeared, and owe filled my heart.

"How can I see such a thing?" I asked myself. "How can I hear, and even smell it?" in that moment I felt being human is a gift and having the ability to be at owe is a treasure. All I wanted to do is get closer, to breathe this wonder, to feel it with my hands, to enter it.

The road kept turning and going, and I felt a warm feeling of excitement in my stomach. It was as if I was floating through the air, a few feet above the ground, towards this great natural wonder. And I was not flying alone. I have soon come to realize that all around me are butterflies. "Am I dreaming?" I said out loud. I planted my feet back into the solid ground, and started staring around. They were all over, some as big as my palm. Colorful flying creatures, magical even. They say there are about 250 different species of butterflies in the Iguazu. I think there were a million colors in the air. I started laughing out loud with myself, and 2 young hippie looking girls looked at me and started laughing as well. That is when I realized that I'm awake and that this is real.

Iguazu is the closest thing to Heaven on earth.    

As I got to the first balcony, I was already so pumped with life that I couldn't wait to get in the water. I paid for the ticket to the bout, and went down to the docs to take the speed boat ride into the falls. I just missed a ride. I got a little edgy, as I felt like a kid and I wanted to go inside NOW. I didn't know yet how lucky I was. Coming 5 seconds late to the boat had left me 1st in line for the next one, and so I got the front sit of the boat (I recommend doing the same.). As we drew closer and closer to the fall, the excitement got louder, then we stopped, About 15 meters from the pouring water. Everyone got quite. The engine sound went lower, and lower and you could feel the tension in the air. Suddenly the engine burst with a wild growl, and we went full speed towards the fall. The tension broke as the chilly water splashed in my face, and I released that "Wooooow" left unexpressed before. Everyone did. It was amazing, and happy laughter was all over the boat, as the amazing power of the falling water was pushing the boat away, back to the river. The second time was just as exciting and the third was just the same. As far as I was concerned, we could have continued going in and out of the falls for the rest of the day.

Eventually we got back onshore, and gave way to the next group. I was full of energy, and ready to explore. I got on the next ride to "San Martin Island".

San Martin Island is only about 30 meters away from "shore", and there was nothing I wanted more then to swim there. But rules are rules, and the boat ride I took.

Upon arriving, most of the people went directly into the little "pool", a marked area of the water in which visitors is allowed to swim, or actually sit in the shallow.

I took the opportunity to get some quiet time with "Mama Nature", and chose the walking path into the forest. I wasn't alone, but I was almost alone, and it was good. The path goes up and up, and splits in a few directions. Either way you go, you end up on different balconies that supply yet another breath taking experience with the all mighty falls. I stood on one balcony alone for 15 minutes, or so it seemed. I was captivated by the sound of the running water, the power of life, and soon enough I could hear the different sounds of each fall, the constant splash of the water hitting the bottom, the soothing hum of those same water as they innocently ride along the river, guided by gravity, towards the angle, the edge, that, much like a warm transforms into a butterfly, will change their presence from a relaxing meditative state into an overwhelming explosion of life.

After an hour of wonders, the forest began to sound the voices of happy tourists as they swarm the paths of this paradise with in heaven. It's my time to go back. Coming down to the water front, I felt urged to explain, the need to tell them, shout it out – "people, we are lucky, so lucky to be here! Go, explore, be swept away", but all I could do is radiate a huge smile. I think it said it all.

I got to the shore and entered the water. The rocky bottom made me walk slowly, and again I felt the human drawn border, marking the edges of the "pool" is out of place.
I set down to rest my body, and the water covered me. I closed my eyes, and for the first time in hours was aware of my body. My right knee hurt, my lower back was hurting, but it all seemed o.k., as if the water were telling about time, and life, and the lesson of appreciation. I smiled, and felt the water tickling. "What is going on?!" I thought. The water IS tickling. "Hey…" Swarms of tiny little fish were tickling me all over. Thousands of them. All over me. I started laughing out loud again, and let them have their way. It was hard to sit still, being tickled all over at the same time, but they didn't seem to mind my little jumps and twitches, and kept on going.

Half an hour later I got back to the main land. I was Wet. I was Tired.

I was rejuvenated.

Going out of the park had a classic finishing chord. I was walking with a 65 years old Argentine couple that works as tour guides in Ushuaia. And while talking about how the glaciers are "The Iguazu of the south", and as I was sketching notes full of tips and locations from the well traveled couple, the woman stopped and stared to the right. It took me a second or two to realize I was talking to myself, and I sopped to see what was now gazed upon by both of them.

A colorful couple of toucans were discussing the day's events on a naked branch. For me, their strong colors symbolized the moment, and summed up the day – their full spectrum of colors, imbedded by nature, has perfectly expressed the full spectrum of feelings I had experienced that day.

I do not know what the old happy couple has felt, but I'm sure that some how, on some level, we were feeling just the same.

Practical travel information for the iguazu falls:

1. Unless u seriously need it for health reasons, no shoes are required for the park. Sandals or flip flops will be enough, and you will probably get wet anyway.
2. There is no real need to bring clothes to change, as the sun will usually dry you up pretty fast. Same goes for a towel
3. entrance to the park is 40 pesos (March 2008)
4. The speed boat ride into the falls costs 120 pesos. You buy the ticket in a booth inside the park. Don't worry, you will not miss it.
5. The boat crew will give you a special water-proof bag. Use it!
6. Bring: bug repellant, sun glasses, a camera (with plenty of MB to use.), water, some sandwiches.
7. When leaving the park, have your ticket signed by the person at the door, so you can come back the next day for 50% of the price.